Friday, February 22, 2013

review - Dining at La Frite

Celine Ramillon carries on the tradition of her owner father


La Frite Café is celebrating their 40th year of serving the San Fernando Valley with their French/American cuisine. Chef-Owner Andre Ramillon opened his doors in 1972, and La Frite  is still a family run business to this day. Ramillon, born in France, attended culinary school and created La Frite’s original menu, known for its variety. At 69, he is still the head chef for both locations, Sherman Oaks and Woodland Hills. Every dish has a true French flavor and appeal. His children Alex (32) and Celine (31) are now running front-house at both locations and are learning to continue his legacy.

With many of the city’s movers and shakers and celebrity regulars such as Melissa Gilbert, Jon Voit, Tony Danza and more, La Frite has remained a staple on the boulevard for years. Serving escargot, steak tartare, mussels, crepes and other traditional French fare combined with hamburgers, eggs benedict and other American fare, La Frite’s menu is well varied and perfect for an array of different palates. “We can only hope to have the success our father has,” says daughter Celine Ramillon, “We have grown up here and many families have grown here with us. It is nice to see generation after generation enjoy our food and continue to come back.”

On Saturday May 19 to help celebrate the 40th anniversary Celine invited me and a guest to dinner at the Sherman Oaks cafe to partake of the restaurant’s finest cuisine and to experience the atmosphere that has made the establishment so popular over the decades. We were first greeted by Julian, who turned out to be our server for the evening. He quickly introduced Celine who was the perfect hostess. She had Julian move two small tables for two together so that we would have more than ample space to enjoy a hefty platter of scrumptious hors d’ oeuvres. The platter contained: pate, halibut beignets, brie, small pieces of garlic toast, mussels and steak tartare. There was also a separate bowl of escargots. Yes, the escargots are every bit as wonderful as you may have been told. If that didn’t provide enough appetizers, when I mentioned that French Onion Soup Gratinee was a favorite, it seemed that no sooner did I open my mouth than a bowl was placed in front of me. I do not exaggerate, it was the best I have tasted! The onions are delectably sweet and there’s enough cheese on top to satisfy two people. I realized I needed to make room for my entrée which I determined would be a steak. Filet mignon or New York steak au Poivre? It was an easy decision, as I have a huge appetite and the New York steak usually fits the bill. Not in the least disappointing! In fact, it was tender and ‘magnifique’ served with potatoes au gratin and broccoli al dente. 

My friend ordered short ribs which (as you can see in the photo) was a plate fit for a king. Surrounding the ribs are: polenta, Brussels sprouts, and turnips. I sampled a bite, and like the steak, the meat was tender and juicy. Both my friend and I raved and knew when we were told that we had to order a chocolate soufflé early, that somehow we would make room for it. Oy, such decisions while eating gourmet food! (ha, ha!) I love cobbler, so we shared both the soufflé – with real whipped cream – and a warm strawberry rhubarb cobbler topped with vanilla ice cream. And a cappuccino, to top it all off, … but of course! What a delicious meal!
I highly, highly recommend the ambiance, service and food of La Frite Cafe. July is the official anniversary, so make early reservations. The dress is casual, with most entrees moderately priced.

-don grigware
La Frite Woodland Hills 22616 Ventura Blvd. (Shoup & Fallbrook) 818.225.1331
La Frite Sherman Oaks 15013 Ventura Blvd. (Kester & Noble) 818.990.1791



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